Cycling Japan’s Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route

Day 1: Arrival - Omihachiman

Omihachiman, located near Lake Biwa in Japan's Shiga Prefecture, features a well-preserved old town showcasing classic architecture from the Edo period. If time allows, you might wander through the historic streets, take a boat tour, explore Hachimanyama Castle, and sample the local specialty, Omi beef.

The tour commences today at your hotel with a welcome meeting and an introduction to your guides. After a bike fitting, indulge in a traditional Japanese dinner.

Day 2: Omihachiman - Koka
40 mi. / 65 km

Today’s easy route follows the shores of Lake Biwa, Japan's largest freshwater lake in the Shiga Prefecture. The lake holds historical and cultural significance, inspiring art and literature throughout the country's history. Spanning approximately 670 square kilometers, it looks more like the sea and has a rich ecosystem, serving as a habitat for diverse wildlife.

From the lake, continue cycling towards the town of Koga. Situated in Ibaraki Prefecture, it’s renowned for ties to the Koga Ninja clan, showcasing their secretive techniques and espionage during feudal Japan. This afternoon, you’ll visit the Koga Ninja Village museum, offering insights into ninja history and practices.

Day 3: Koka - Yagyu
43 mi. / 70 km

Starting on tranquil country roads, the route gradually climbs towards drier, sandy landscapes. Cycle along peaceful paths to reach the Shigaraki Pottery Village celebrated for its unglazed, coarse-textured pottery. The village streets are lined with kilns, workshops, and galleries.

Continuing the journey, the trail ascends through lesser-traveled roads to Wakuza town, unveiling expansive views of horizontally ridged tea fields. The carefully tended Japanese green tea bushes glisten in the sunlight, creating a captivating sight. Amidst the tea fields, there are opportunities to taste green tea soft ice cream, sample green tea, and partake in guided tours of the tea plantations.

The day's route ends in Yagyu, known for its history with a legendary swordsman, where you will stay at a Japanese Ryokan with cultural significance.

Day 4: Yagyu - Yoshino
53 mi. / 85 km

Today's journey leads along country roads, passing through quintessential Japanese farm villages, and traditional Japanese houses.

Continuing on rural roads, cycle towards the Murojo Temple village. The mystical atmosphere of Murou Temple is home to a significant five-storied pagoda and an eleven-faced Buddha, both designated national treasures. Nestled amidst mountains and forests, the temple grounds offer tranquility and seclusion.

Before reaching Yoshino along the Yoshino River, observe the historical importance of the Kii Peninsula through the traditional architecture of the villages.

The day concludes at a Japanese Ryokan, featuring natural hot spring baths, preparing you for tomorrow's adventure: the ascent up Yoshino Mountain.

Day 5: Yoshino - Mount Koya
34 mi. / 55 km

This morning, begin at Yoshino Station and cycle the winding road leading to Yoshino Mountain's main ridge.

Appreciate the views at the top as you continue along a narrow street lined with shops selling various items like incense, Japanese sweets, and noodles. The street ends at Kinpusenji Temple, the primary temple of Shugendo, a mountain-centered religion.

Continuing along the route, descend steeply into a quiet forest area with minimal traffic. After multiple ups and downs, you'll reach Kurotaki Village. A steep incline from here leads to Dorogawa Onsen, a hot spring spa tucked away in the foothills of Mt. Oomine, an important UNESCO-designated mountain along the World Heritage Kumano Pilgrimage Routes.

Day 6: Mount Koya - Dorogawa Onsen
39 mi. / 62 km

This morning, begin at Yoshino Station and cycle the winding road leading to Yoshino Mountain's main ridge.

Appreciate the views at the top as you continue along a narrow street lined with shops selling various items like incense, Japanese sweets, and noodles. The street ends at Kinpusenji Temple, the primary temple of Shugendo, a mountain-centered religion.

Continuing along the route, descend steeply into a quiet forest area with minimal traffic. After multiple ups and downs, you'll reach Kurotaki Village. A steep incline from here leads to Dorogawa Onsen, a hot spring spa tucked away in the foothills of Mt. Oomine, an important UNESCO-designated mountain along the World Heritage Kumano Pilgrimage Routes.

Day 7: Dorogawa Onsen - Totsukawa
37 mi. / 60 km

After leaving Dorogawa Onsen, the route will follow along the pristine waters of the Tenkawa river. Visit the Tenkawa Shrine, a revered Shinto shrine dedicated to the goddess Benzaiten, associated with water, music, and the arts. The shrine is nestled in the mystical atmosphere of the forest drawing pilgrims for centuries in search of the spiritual purification and blessings through the rejuvenating power of nature.

Today's journey continues thrugh scenic gorges and winds through a valley to Totsukawa. Although seldom frequented, the path is a hidden gem along the old pilgrimage route. This area is sparsely populated and experiences minimal traffic, making it a pleasant ride which includes passing through many tunnels.

Day 8: Totsukawa - Kawayu Onsen
34 mi. / 55 km

As the path crosses the valley, this morning’s route showcases breathtaking scenery from elevated bridges spanning the Totsukawa River. Stop to visit the impressive Kumano Hongu. With centuries of history, it’s dedicated to ancient Shinto beliefs and deities residing in the revered Kumano Mountains.

Continue to cycle through Yunomine, a hot spring spa, before arriving at Kawayu Onsen. Here you might consider stopping for a swim in the Daito River. At 70 degrees, these hot springs emerge from the riverbed, offering the chance to create an open-air bath.

Day 9: Kawayu Onsen

Time for a break from the bike! Spend the day soaking in the warm spa waters or explore one of the Kumano pilgrimage trails with various optional hikes.

Day 10: Kawayu Onsen - Shingu
37 mi. / 60 km

Cycle from Kawayu to the Kumano River to enter the Kiwa region. This area is known for its historic copper mine dating back a millennium, which supplied copper for the Great Buddha of Nara. A visit to the Kiwa Mining Museum is recommended for insights into the mining community's history, including a descent into the former shafts.

Near the museum turnoff stands a railway station offering trolley train rides to Yunokuchi hot spring spa. A quick stop here can be pleasant, particularly for a dip in a local inn's baths, which usually welcome bathers for a nominal fee.

The highlight of the day awaits about 6 km from the museum, the Maruyama Senmaida: terraced rice fields ascend uphill, totaling 1350 fields across a 160-meter elevation.

From here, the path continues to wind through forests, crossing the Kumano River again before the final stop for the day in Shingu.

Day 11: Shingu - Nachi-Katsuura
34 mi. / 55 km

Follow the route towards Nachi-Katsuura on the Pacific coast, renowned for its hot springs and tuna fishing. Along the way, you'll discover Kumano Nachi Taisha, one of the area's three major shrines. After the visit you will have completed a significant spiritual achievement of visiting the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano. This site hosts Japan's tallest waterfall, standing at an impressive 133 meters. Additionally, you’ll pass through many beautiful hill-perched villages amidst steep, terraced rice fields.

Although the terrain may be demanding, the varied scenery along the way offers a sense of accomplishment, and the sight of the Pacific Ocean at the tour's conclusion promises to be a rewarding finale.

Day 12: Nachi-Katsuura

The tour concludes after breakfast. If time allows, consider spending additional time in Nachi-Katsura to explore the coastal town's hot springs, indulge in local cuisine, or wander through beautiful hill-perched villages amidst steep, terraced rice fields.